I have wanted to surf this area for years now. With a pulsing swell and an awkward wind, Ffion and I decided to explore the southern Cape peninsula. There are a lot of potential spots here, we ended up finding high ground to use as vantage points and discussed the likelihood of tides/ winds making or breaking spots.
This is one place you can happily do some surf scouting, with beautiful, rugged feinbos and wild animals all around you, waves are just a bonus. We found ourselves in a bay with a cross-shore wind and a lot of white water. Amongst the white water was one peak, rising up over an underwater shelf and peeling large ragged looking rights. A quick feed while we suited up and then a walk passed the buck and ostrich lazily patrolling the beach.
We tiptoed over the rocks to the point and Ffi took the first plunge, timing her entry as white water washed over the rocks threatening to sweep our feet away. Paddling through the keyhole and out among the kelp to the wave. The sea felt big, the place felt wild and my heart was pumping when we realised that the peak we were watching from the beach was forming a nice trough and was much bigger than we first realised. Leading the way as always, Ffi charged into the first wave that came our way, disappeared, the popped off the back further down the line with a big smile on her face. Although the take off was big and kelpy, once you had made it down the line, the wave tapered into the channel to let you back out easily.
This is what I love so much about surfing here, the adventure of searching, paddling into the unknown, and using your wits to make sure you don’t find out what the bottom feels like. The reward when it pays off is utter elation. I spent the rest of the day grinning. Although you always feel connected to nature when in the water, surfing in such a dramatic setting only enhanced that feeling. Now I need to plan another trip to really go and get lost in the wilderness, maybe try and ride an ostrich or something.
Photos by Mat Malcolm and Ffion Atkins