Day two in Nova Scotia was a day that I will always remember. Day one, we found our feet, learned to drive a 24ft long RV through Halifax, bought supplies, surfed in head high, 40mph onshore wind slop just to get the grease out of our hair. We drank beer, ate poutine and slept in a supermarket car park in front of the ‘No Overnight Parking’ sign.

Day two started before the light. We clumsily navigated our way passed lakes to the spot we had surfed the previous afternoon under the watch of a giant moose sculpture. We saw the wave in the early morning gloom, still windy but shaping up and running left off the point. It took some to trust to leave it and follow the advice of a friend who had told us that best spot for the conditions would be further on, we chose to heed his advice and fired up the RV. As we drove over the hill and caught a glimpse through the trees we knew it was the right call.

We pulled over, ran to the edge of the road and saw the wave reeling right, big and clean all the way down the point in the early light.

After hours surfing solid, cold, green walls we continued to watch the show with a cup of coffee in hand and tried to glean more information from the locals. The next stop, just a few headlands away involved a secluded car park in a clearing, a small path, a wooden walkway over a marsh and a walk across a pebble ridge to where the coast cut into the bay and the wave wrapped into it. The wave is named after the length of ride you can get here, little chop made this long point break a fun challenge.

A quick refuel and we were back to finish off the day with an evening session before the swell died down. Sitting in the RV in a small clearing in the trees, we cooked dinner, drank White Russians and relived all the waves from the day, it was a very good start to the trip.

Photos by Tom Fewings & Mat Malcolm

Leave a Reply